The extremely acclaimed Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park mentioned on Monday that it could not serve meat or seafood when it reopens subsequent month, changing into some of the high-profile eating places to change to a plant-based menu due to environmental issues.
Daniel Humm, the chef and an proprietor, mentioned in an announcement on the restaurant’s web site, “It was clear that after every thing all of us skilled this previous 12 months, we couldn’t open the identical restaurant.”
Mr. Humm mentioned that the coronavirus pandemic, which led to closure and layoffs, had pressured the restaurant’s leaders to reimagine its future. “Now we have all the time operated with sensitivity to the impression we’ve on our environment,” he mentioned, “however it was changing into ever clearer that the present meals system is solely not sustainable, in so some ways.”
Mr. Humm mentioned that the kitchen had spent its days creating new dishes and meat and dairy options, like plant-based milks, butter and lotions, flavorful vegetable broths and shares, and fermented foodstuffs.
“What at first felt limiting started to really feel liberating, and we’re solely scratching the floor,” he mentioned. “All this has given us the arrogance to reinvent what nice eating might be.”
The restaurant’s resolution to reinvent its menu, reported Monday by The Wall Road Journal, is probably a danger for the Michelin-starred restaurant, which was identified for dishes like lavender honey-glazed duck, lobster and Hawaiian prawn roulade.
However the transfer comes as distinguished eating places have shifted towards plant-based recipes, generally to important applause. The Michelin Information has awarded stars to vegetarian eating places, however solely three vegan eating places have star awards and none have a couple of. There’s one vegetarian restaurant with three Michelin stars, King’s Pleasure in Beijing, in line with a spokeswoman for Michelin North America.
In January, the Michelin Information gave its first star to a totally vegan institution in France, ONA, a restaurant close to Bordeaux.
Eleven Madison Park was awarded 4 stars from The New York Occasions, three Michelin stars, and the No. 1 spot on the World’s 50 Greatest Eating places record in 2017. The restaurant will proceed to supply milk for espresso and tea, which means it won’t be solely vegan, Mr. Humm mentioned.
“We’re not right here to take something away, we simply need to enrich folks with exhibiting a unique means what a nice dinning meal might be,” he mentioned in a textual content. “We don’t need to lecture folks.”
Mr. Humm, in an interview with NPR’s “How I Constructed This,” gave an instance of a dish the restaurant will serve: oven-roasted golden oyster mushrooms glazed with kombu inventory and dusted with dehydrated pine needle mushroom powder. He mentioned he needed to create a restaurant the place meat eaters can be “blown away” by consuming greens.
Cooking publications and web sites have made comparable bets about what diners would really like lately. Final month, Epicurious, the favored cooking web site, mentioned it could not publish new beef recipes and had been phasing them out for over a 12 months over issues about local weather change. Epicurious cited information from the Meals and Agriculture Group of the United Nations that mentioned 14.5 % of world greenhouse fuel emissions come from livestock.
Brett Anderson contributed reporting.